My wife and I have at various times throughout our married life vowed that a Cruise is not something for us. But then there are these music cruises which at a push could be something for us. The first Outlaw Country West cruise had exactly the lineup that was that push. So it was ,we found ourselves hot footing it out to Los Angeles a mere 6 weeks after we were last there. We embarked on the Norwegian Jewel along with approx 2200 other passengers to sail out along the Baja California coast with 2 stops in Mexican ports Cabo San Lucas and Ensenada the latter of which was namechecked in a Lyle Lovatt song.
For me the first night was the one that swung it – Los Lobos, Chuck Prophet, Dave Alvin and Lucinda Williams. I guess our age group are now the flag bearers for this type of music and more importantly given the health conditions of 3 of those artists a barometer of our own health. Chuck Prophet was diagnosed with Lymphoma earlier this year, Dave Alvin unbeknownst to me had been battling with cancer for the last 3 years and Lucinda is still recovering from a severe stroke. Los Lobos played us out of port and set us in the mood for what was to come. I have seem them around 5 times and to be honest as much as I love their recorded output they haven’t always hit the spot live. This was one of their better live gigs – first tine I have seen them play Kiko and the Lavender moon. We also got majestic versions of Evangeline and Will the wolf survive. A perfect opening performance. Dave Alvin followed and was in fine form. Next up for Chuck Prophet – no signs of any illness, he put in a barnstorming set. And then to my beloved Lucinda. I had a tear in my eye as she was helped onto the stage by her husband. Her left arm is visibly weak and now unable to play the guitar there is no question she is physically weaker than before the stroke. However – her voice is the best it has been in perhaps 15 years or more – back to the time of Essence. We got some favourites – Those Three Years, Lake Charles and a couple of songs from next album – Lets get the band back together and Big Black Train. Her voice has lost that swampish sound and is far clearer. I spoke with a couple of people on the cruise who also agreed and put it down to a) having to concentrate more on her voice now that she cannot play the guitar b) having cut out the booze/pills to speed her recovery. It could of course be a combination of the 2 or nothing of the sort but for me I was ecstatic and even better was to come (further down this review).
The next day I was smitten by two artists I had not previously heard -Lillie Mae which is a group headed by a girl of that name – her brother and her husband were both lead guitarists in the band and both absolutely superb. Also, although I was familiar with her name I was hearing Rosie Flores for the first time and she absolutely blew me away. She kicks ass and is accomplished at Blues, Rockabilly and everything in between. Where has she been all my life?
Also there were a couple of good fun Rockabilly bands in the form of Deke Dickerson and the Whippersnappers and Big Sandy and the Fly Nite boys – both 3 piece standup bass, guitar and drums. Enormous fun live but not bands who would feature in my record collection.
Also very good sets by the Long Ryders and Shannon McNally.
Then to Steve Earle – acoustic solo and fabulous. He was in great form and treated us to some deep cuts such as Tanney Town, Someday, Transcendental Blues and a splendid Galway Girl/Copperhead Road one two. He finished with an emotional tribute to Justin – his Harlem River blues.
He recalled that he has been clean for 27 years and at one point was spending $750 to $1000 per day on dope. Whatever, it is better to have a clean Steve Earle with potential writers block playing incendiary live gigs such as this than a drugged up washed out former legend. One of the highlights of the cruise for sure but still a couple more to come. The second Lucinda gig was out of this world – she sang her ass off, was dancing and was joined on stage by Charlie Sexton and Wayne Kramer midway through set to augment the superb Buick 6. She was visibly on cloud 9 and it was a deeply emotional night for her and for the audience. I had front row seats and she was really engaging with the audience and as far as I was concerned with me personally. This performance was the highlight of the cruise.
There was also a multi performer tribute night to Merle Haggard with all of the aforementioned artists.
Then finally to top it all there was a songwriter performance in the round with Steve Earle, Lucinda, Charlie Sexton and Dave Alvin that ended with an emotional This Land is our land.
During the week they held autograph/meet the artist sessions – I asked Chuck Prophet if he was well and he told me he was in complete remission. I also asked if he would be touring the UK next year and specifically Birmingham. He told me how much he loved Brummies and had a remarkable Brummie accent to prove it. Top man.
Told the Long Ryders that I had not seen them live but had seen Sid Griffin solo in Birmingham, They asked me if he was any good and I told them jokingly that he sucked. He theatrically threw his pen at me.
The cruise was in very good spirits. I had been slightly concerned that the unlimited drinks package may encourage drunken boorish behaviour but none was visible. I only encountered one lot of fuckwits during Rosie Flores set but was able to move quickly away from them.
The musical knowledge of the Americans and Canadians I spoke to was really impressive and surprisingly there was a lot of admiration for one Mr Richard Thompson.
A really enjoyable week and there is a distinct possibility we will do another one.
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Junior Wells says
Great review. I too have been tempted. However, a cruise ship just berthed in Sydney with 800 covid cases. They seem like floating petrie dishes. That said having such a list , no doubt chilled and enjoying the cruise themselves remains tempting.
Great to hear about Lucinda and Steve as both are heading down here next Easter.
SteveT says
I saw that report Junior I also heard that Dave Alvin and Rosie Flores both got Covid on our cruise – to be honest the symptoms are so mild these days is it really the threat it was?
I have so far managed to escape it and long may that be the case but for me personally it wouldn’t put me off.
Junior Wells says
Well if you are an asthmatic like me COVID can still kill you. Nearly did when i got it.
SteveT says
HI Junior no slight meant on any people with a weakened immune system. I have type 2 diabetes which supposedly puts me at higher risk. However my immune system still appears to be pretty robust and I am more interested in living my life on my terms than being directed in a direction I have no intention of travelling.
Gary says
@stevet I’ve not had it either, as far as I know, despite a few recent plane journeys. This morning I came across this interesting article about people who haven’t had it.
https://www.bbc.com/news/health-63256505?xtor
Moose the Mooche says
Another no-Covider here. That’s a very interesting article, not least because it contains the very satisfying word “nucleocapsid”.
SteveT says
All I can say is that my wife had it badly twice – I didn’t isolate and continued to share the same bed. .Didn’t get it.
Similarly worked in office throughout the Covid height, on two or three occasions there was a significant outbreak in the office – still escaped it.
I am not complacent but nor am I fearful or ever have been.
Lodestone of Wrongness says
The thought of being on a cruise ship appals me. The thought on being on a cruise ship with that line up appeals to me (to say the least).
Can I cheekily enquire roughly how much a cruise like this costs?
hubert rawlinson says
https://www.outlawcountrycruise.com/
Sold out next year.
dai says
Very pricey @SteveT must be loaded
SteveT says
$1550 per person which seemed cheap when I booked at $ 1.35 exchange rate but less so at $ 1.10 after Ms Truss got her hands on the coffers.
It includes all of your food so probably in line with a holiday in a decent resort.
(Flights extra).
It is likely my last working year and to be honest Covid has been financially very good to me – I doubt I will afford it when retirement beckons.
NCL/Sixthman are very clever though – they offer you $500 off your next cruise on your last day.
(My Route 66 tour was significantly more expensive possibly because my daughter and her boyfriend didn’t make their agreed contributions)
Moose the Mooche says
Am I the only person who is amused by the idea of an Outlaw Country cruise ship?
A floating Fulsom Prison…
Mike_H says
Should take place on a prison hulk, for authenticity.
All locked in your cabins and only let out for the concerts.
Lodestone of Wrongness says
Imagine back in ,say, 1969 us lot standing on the barricades shouting “We’re going to change the world! And after that we are all going to go on a cruise ship and watch our favourite bands and we’ll be in bed by eleven each night and where’s that nice nurse with me pills?”
Moose the Mooche says
“SS Aurora, I hate every inch of you…
Mr Head Steward, you don’t understand….”
hubert rawlinson says
Ensenada also mentioned in Carmelita by Warren Zevon.
Just back from holiday on Wednesday I’ve been in bed ever since, don’t think it’s covid. I may take a test tomorrow.
Baron Harkonnen says
Hey @SteveT did Mrs SteveT take notes for you because there’s no feckin` way you’d remember all that especially if the ale was free (an important piece of info you didn’t tell m about).
Out of all of those you saw, I have also seen most of them apart from the unknowns and would have really loved to have seen Los Lobos again.
Glad to see a good time was had by all, tell the Mrs what I good review she provided for us!
SteveT says
Actually Baron the beer isn’t free. You can buy the unlimited drink package but since Ness only drinks maybe one or two alcoholic drinks per day it didn’t make economic sense because you have to buy for each member of your cabin.
What I did find though is that if you bought a large g and t for example they only charged for a single.
Vulpes Vulpes says
Great to hear that Chuck’s doing OK. I have had Balinese Dancer in the Landy for the last decade, and never get tired of it. Some of this other albums are just as good. Would love to see him play live. Maybe I’ll scuttle up to Brum if he delivers there.
SteveT says
HI Junior no slight meant on any people with a weakened immune system. I have type 2 diabetes which supposedly puts me at higher risk. However my immune system still appears to be pretty robust and I am more interested in living my life on my terms than being directed in a direction I have no intention of travelling.