We are off later this week for a long weekend in Dublin, with two teenagers. Booked into Once the Musical (either that or Riverdance or a depressing play at the Abbey), and Kilmainham Gaol Tour, and will do Dalkey Castle, Phoenix Park and IMMA. We have some local intelligence which has given us a great set of coffee shops. We could use some Massive information for a daytime early/ev pub to take them into and go ‘this is Guinness’, we’d like to know where to get the best pint. And any other quirky things to see/do that might not be on our radar.
Off to Dublin – suggestions please
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If you enjoy art the Hugh Lane Gallery is well worth a look, and free. The reconstruction of Francis Bacon’s studio should fit the quirky criterion http://www.hughlane.ie/history-of-studio-relocation
There’s a natural history museum not far off St Stephen’s Green… and a great bookshop (Hodges & Figgis) in the street parallel to Grafton St… Visitors tend to find the Temple Bar area (off Dame Street, short walk from Grafton St – the main shipping street) characterful to walk around – plenty of pubs, food places and probably street entertainers. A bit like a rougher Covent Garden…
The best pubs in Dublin City Centre for a pint of Guinness are Mulligans on Poolbeg St., Kehoes off Grafton Street or McDaids also off Grafton Street. If you stray a bit out of the City Centre onto the notorious Northside, try a trip to the Botanical Gardens in Glasnevin, visit the very interesting nearby Glasnevin Cemetery and stop off for a pint at the Gravediggers pub.
For quirky spots around the City Centre, I like the George’s St. Arcade and nearby Powerscourt Centre, especially if it’s raining. If you’re heading out of an evening, trek up to Wexford St. for less touristy but lively pubs. I’d recommend Anseo for a good vibe, selection of beers and always good music. It’s also where I met my wife.
“notorious Northside’?
Tut.
I’m from the Northside; one of the more notorious areas actually – where Bono pretends he grew up, and live in North County Dublin now. I was joking about it, though having said that, most tourist guides direct tourists to the Southside and suggest they stay there.
I know that area well Bamber, I grew up there too, I just think it gets enough bad press without adding to the mix.
Fair enough if you say it was a joke, I didn’t pick up on that on first reading.
* offers mouthful of two litre to Bamber *
Good to see you ’round here, man.
Likewise pal!
The scene from the Commitments posted below says it all…
Book of Kells. It is an absolutely stunning beautiful thing, and you don’t have to be religious to appreciate it. I was breathtaken.
Make sure to visit the National Museum. The ancient gold artefacts are stunning, and rhe several preserved peat bog bodies unforgettable. Nice cafe too.
That’s what I wanted to do on the way back from our family holiday down Waterford way this summer. Sadly ferry schedules didn’t allow.
I’m keen to get back to Dublin for a proper visit (perhaps without the kids) and I’ll be paying proper attention to what else the Massive comes up with.
Well, the Guinness brewery might be a good place to go to – not cheap, but a worthwhile attraction. When I’ve been in Dublin, The Stag’s Head on Dame Street is a good place to go to and there are other decent pubs within walking distance – 5 mins – of the Stag’s Head. Avoid O’Donoghue’s – crowded, staff not particularly pleasant. For an evening, take DART train service up to Howth, there are a number of decent seafood restaurants. Walk around the Georgian squares, St Stephen’s Green, walk along the Liffey (North or South side). The Dublin Writers museum is interesting and, if stadium tours are your thing, Croke Park is interesting (home of Gaelic games) though guides can be very precious about the sainted games. Kilmainham Gaol is interesting, tours are well done. If you’ve any money left, go for a pint at the Horseshoe bar in the Shelbourne (I saw Van Morrison there one with his squeeze – Michelle Rocca. He still looked bloody miserable).
Have a good trip.
Fond memories of The Summit in Howth. Mind you, I haven’t been there for nearly 25 years.
http://thesummitinn.ie/
If you can remember The Summit, you weren’t there 😉
The girl I was dating lived on the same road, less than 5 minutes stagger.
Bamber’s recommendations re. Kehoe’s and Mulligans are both spot on the money – but for me, as Dodger says, the Stag’s Head’s the absolute business. Less busy now that the whole South William Street trendiness has taken over, but for me, when I’m back home in Dublin, the right barstool in the Stag’s is where I want to be. Hope you have a fantastic trip.
PS D4 Southsoider here, roight?
Southside v Northside.
Reminds me of this great scene from The Commitments.
I also love the Chester Beatty Library in Dublin Castle. Free in!
CBL is brilliant. Seconded.
A bit hipster-ish but I liked this place – http://vintagecocktailclub.com/
Old fashioned speakeasy where you can try from a plethora of cocktails through the ages. Lots of absinthe and whatnot. In the city centre, temple bar bit, but hidden behind an anonymous locked door (you knock and are greeted by a charming waiter who leads you up the stairs).
If you are going to Dalkey Castle, you can get a good pint of Guinness in King’s across the road or in The Club about five minutes walk away.
A lot of good suggestions here. If you open up a GoogleMap page and centre it on Grafton Street, it’s all the stuff off Grafton Street that’s interesting. I’m going to repeat some of the advice above.
– in the warren of streets to the west of Grafton St you have the Powerscourt Town Centre (glitzy!) and beyond that the George’s St Arcade (enjoyably non-glitzy!). The arcade has Spin Dizzy records. Wicklow Street has The Secret Book & Record Store which is great for a rummage, and Murphy’s Ice Cream. Also in that warren is Lemon Pancakes, The Record Spot record store (bargains in the basement) and Clement & Pekoe which does outstanding coffee. The next big street over is George’s Street itself: visit Walton’s Music Store where they filmed the Falling Slowly scene for Once, and up a bit is Pitt Bros restaurant, where you’ll get a meaty €10 lunch. Beyond Georges Street is Dublin Castle and within the grounds is the Chester Beatty Library which is actually a museum of far eastern art. It’s Free!
Going the other way, to the east of Grafton Street: you have Keogh’s & McDaid’s pubs, and the next big street over is Dawson St which has the huge Hodges Figgis bookstore. Across the road is Tower Records, an actual Tower Records. Huge new vinyl section upstairs. (Dawson Street is currently having huge roadworks done to it due to the LUAS extension) At the end of Dawson St on Stephen’s Green is The Little Museum of Dublin (not free) which is really good. There’s a U2 room on top and a great cafe/restaurant in the basement. Going across further you can walk around Merrion Sq, Baggot St and look at all the Georgianalia. On Merrion Sq is the National Gallery (free!) which is good, and one of the national museums is there (free) full of golden torcs and whatnot and the national history museum is there too, although it’s a bit musty.
North of Graton St you have Trinity College which is worth walking around, and it houses the Book of Kells, which is worth seeing. Trinity also houses the Science Gallery which your teens might enjoy if they like popular science things. There is also a crazy secret zoology museum hidden in Trinity too, try and find it! Beyond Trinity: Describing Temple Bar as a rough Covent Garden is pretty apt. I tend to avoid the area as it’s touristy. But if you’re a tourist…
One thing I’ve learned from this thread is that Dublin has a Northside. I kid, I kid. Seriously though, this month was the first time ever that I’ve been to the Hugh Lane Gallery and it’s amazing. The Bacon studio is worth a visit. Felt stupid for never making the trip before. And it’s free! Down the north bank of the Liffey opposite the Guinness factory is the relatively-new National Museum at Collins Barracks (it has a stop on the green line LUAS) it’s free too! And very big. It’s in a renovated old barracks with a reconstruction of the Asgard boat. And there’s the usual museum cafe.
If you’re going out to Dalkey Castle that’s cool. A walk around Dun LAoghaire is always welcome. Take the Dart train from town and enjoy the coastal views.
Yeah, enjoy yourself!
If you want decent record shops head to Belfast :-p
I wouldn’t necessarily argue with that. But there ain’t no Pitt Bros in The North.
Being located in the south of Australia where it is a hour or so in a plane just to the next major city, I do find it annoying for you Europeans to remark that you are popping off to Dublin for a long weekend, nipping down to Spain for a few days, heading to Paris for a night.
Please desist.
I mentioned this once in The Old Place, when I had asked for recommendations for Istanbul where I was going for a few days then added that by the standards of almost anyone who has ever lived ‘going to Istanbul for a few days’ was an absurdly privileged thing to be able to say.
It brought to mind Yeats’ poem Sailing to Byzantium (‘That is no country for old men …’), and that my own version would read:
Dear all,
Off to Byzantium,
Back Friday,
Love, Gatz.
You’d think Antarctica would be a snip but you have to go via Chile.
Bali/ Indonesia is still 8 hours for me though less so for the Conch and those in WA and a short trip for Darwinistas.
Toughen up JW – it’s far from impossible. I’ve flown to Europe from Australia for a 4/5 day break loads of times. It’s not that hard if you have the necessary mindset – and admittedly – wallet.
yeah its the cost – that’s why aussies ,when they go, tend to go for longer.
I’ll drive to Sydney for a few days at a time and that’s 10 hours.
I flew from Perth to Sydney on the weekend. A trifling 4 hour hop* which feels like the blink of an eye compared to the 20+ hours Oz to London.
In European terms though it’s the same as London to Greenland, Lebanon, Cairo or Cyprus.
*the return flight, against the wind is over 5 hours.
plus the cost – what does a return flight cost Conch ?
Normally around $500 return, but you can often get specials cheaper that
All of the above but, as the estimable @DrJ suggests, if you do get to the National Gallery, would you go and stand in front of Caravaggio’s The Taking of Christ for me? And, if it’s on show, a beautiful painting called The Meeting On The Turret Stairs. Both of them gladden my heart and I’ve not been for a few years.
Can you tell us where you’re staying? I’m sure we could all come up with a pretty decent itinerary based on where you are. If you’re going to the Olympia to see Once, and you like pizza, you might enjoy Skinflint which is on Crane Lane, about 2 minutes walk from the Olympia’s front door. The pizzas are rectangle, the tables are reconditioned doors which all sounds desperately hip and trying but it’s cheap, pleasant and kids usually get a kick out of the oddness of it.
There’s been lots of pubs mentioned but I don’t think I saw anything about The Long Hall on Georges St. It’s close to Waltons Music Store, across from the exit of the Georges Street Arcade. It’s an old Victorian pub that looks exactly as it did 50 years ago. Super pint of Guinness there if that’s your thing. Fairly quiet in the afternoon/early evening too before getting very busy. I believe that Phil Lynott recorded parts of the ‘Old Town’ video there (Ola!) and Bruce Springsteen, creature of habit that he is, always drops in for a Guinness and a Redbreast whenever he’s in town. It doesn’t look like much from the outside but it’s a winner.
As a local who has taken visitors to the Guinness storehouse on several occasions I’d have one piece of advice: don’t do it. Seriously, it’s overpriced, overcrowded and really not worth the hassle. Your time in Dublin will fly – don’t waste it there. Guinnesss doesn’t need your money and you’ll spend it better elsewhere. Conan O’Brien went there a few years ago and pretty much nailed it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjTAOOrvGd0 It’s an awful lot of waffle just to get to a rooftop bar for a VERY COLD pint of stout.
If movies are your thing, the Lighthouse Cinema is the best cinema in the city. It’s a couple of stops away from Collins Barracks museum. Shows a great mix of arthouse and documentaries as well as more mainstream movies. Beautiful space, nice food and you are allowed, if not actually encouraged, to bring a drink into the screening with you. Think there’s still table tennis downstairs for the kids (and the adults). They run great seasons of old movies too. This weekend they’re screening Ferris Bueller’s Day Off and the Lord of the Rings trilogy. It’s a great spot in the fascinating (little bit rough, little bit residential/little bit touristy) neighbourhood of Smithfield. Lots of good restaurants around there too. Oh – and the Cobblestone which is the place to go for real trad music – as opposed to the stuff that’s wheeled out in Temple Bar. The Guardian recently described that part of the city as Dublin’s Williamsburg – which is a stretch but not completely wide of the mark.
Temple Bar gets a bit of a kicking, and probably rightly so (although it’s not without its charms). But there’s a lot to be said for the newer part of Temple Bar, west of Parliament St. Nice little shops and cafes around Cow’s Lane. Drop in to the Gutter Bookshop and say hi to Bob! Close to Dublin Castle if that’s where you’re going.
There’s loads to do in Dublin – you’ll have a great time.
Is the IFI still going? Went to loads of fun.s there, and met someone who became a. Best friend in the café there
Edit function?
Oh.
IFI is still going. It’s a great hangout/cinema/shop. One of the few reasons to veer into Temple Bar.
Hi all thanks for all your suggestions so far, it seems four days is not enough. We have added Malahide Castle to the agenda too, as being the best castle close to Dublin. We are staying in Gardiner Place which is just SW of Mountjoy Square Park @johnny-bubbles, and the pizza place recommendation may save us from Milano which I gather is the Irish iteration of Pizza Express which the kids have written on their version of the trip agenda.
Something to bear in mind is that Dublin are playing Kerry in the All-Ireland Football semi-final in Croke Park on Sunday. That’s pretty close to where you’re staying so the area could be a bit mobbed between around noon and 6 or so. You might want to get out of dodge and avoid the crowds. Although, if you’ve never seen a GAA game, there’s worse things to do than find yourself a seat in a bar somewhere and watch the action unfold!
Ah yes I did look a few weeks ago for tickets as our one expensive event, but sold out long ago no doubt. So good tip to get out of the area then.
Without kicking off a Northside-Southside thing, and without trying to upset @moseleymoles , Gardiner Street can be a bit of a sketchy part of town, as well as around Mountjoy Sq. As JohnnyB says, it’ll be overwhelmed on Sunday afternoon due to the sports up in Croke Park. On the plus side it’s very close to the Hugh Lane Gallery, which shouldn’t be missed, and you’re beside North Great Georges Street which is a lovely Georgian row of buildings.
Skinflint is great for pizzas, I’ll second @johnny-bubbles in that regard. I also like PizzaStop off Grafton street for reasonable family pizza feeding, or Steps Of Rome (also off Grafton St) for their take away slices.
*Puts on local guide’s hat*
In fairness (and in an attempt to reassure our visitors!) Gardiner Place isn’t as bad as Gardiner Street.
If I was @moseleymoles I’d get into the city by walking a couple of blokes on to Denmark Street before turning left onto North Great Georges Street. It’s been used as a location for umpteen early 20th century tv shows and films which might be of interest to the teenagers..
Walk to the end of the street and hang a right turn. A few yards up on your right you’ll find the 147 Deli, unquestionably the finest café around that part of town. It’s really very good. https://lovindublin.com/restaurants/147-deli Oh – don’t be put off by the construction on the street – the Luas line is being extended so much of that stretch of the street is essentially a building site. You’ll see something similar in other parts of town. Blame our fabulous city planners. Also, don’t be put off by the neerdwells that hang around that little stretch – they’re mostly harmless.
Once you’ve had your fill of coffee, sandwiches, doughnuts, etc. walk on a little bit and you’ll hit the intersection with O’Connell Street. Turn left, look towards the Spire, with the General Post Office just beyond it, and you’re on the way. It’s really not a long walk at all 5 minutes would get you to the end of O’Connell Street.
In case you’re tempted, I wouldn’t bother with the 1916 museum thingy in the GPO. If you’re looking for a bit of that sort of thing Kilmainham Gaol is much, much better. And it’s right beside IMMA which is lovely too.
*Takes off local guide’s hat. Puts Wednesday hat back on*
It’s a lot easier not to intimidated by ne’er-do-wells when you have a couple of blokes with you…
If Jazz and/or the blues are your thing, strongly recommend upstairs in JJ Smiths, Aungier St.
http://www.jjsmyths.com/
There’s live music there most nights. Whelans of Wexford St. for more alternative/roots offerings.
http://www.whelanslive.com/
With 2 teenagers Whelans is probably the better bet.
Must give a shout for the The Secret Book and Record Store, up a long hallway in Wicklow St., just off Grafton St. well worth a visit.
Great selection of music new & 2nd hand CDs and Vinyl.
My favorite pubs in Dublin are
Grogans just off Grafton St for Drink,Art and Clientelle.
Brazen Head on North Quays Dublins oldest pub for food and music that tourists seem to enjoy
Pubs – definite yes to the Stags Head and Mulligans. Couple of decent bars (just) on the Northside as well – Nealons and Sin E. Not sure if gigs are on the agenda, but check what’s on at Vicar St or Whelan’s. They’re both great.
You might want to take what I say with a pinch of salt when I reveal that I was a dirty Southsider though. D6 represent!
Might not be ideal for a family holiday, but worth noting that Bruxelles is the classic rock pub in Dublin.
Hi,
I am not in anyway local, but one of my best friends is (“Hello David X.” Hello Paul Hewson”).
Howt’ is a great shout – D(X)’s Dad took me round there, and it is great.
Not sure there is a bad pint in the city. Also got taken to Clonarf(?) castle for a wedding, and that was splendid too.
If they still exist, I also remember Freebird and The Record Spot shops, that (may have) stocked unofficial releases.
Enjoy!
The first time I went Dublin I took the Dart to Howt’ (I had been coached in the pronunciation). I didn’t know which train to get, so I went to ticket window and said, ‘Hello – what train do I need for Howt’ please?’ ‘She looked at me and then tilted her head and replied, ‘That would be the Howt’ train’.
I was quite disappointed with Dublin. Parts of it were quite run down and the place seemed to be a little depressed.
Most of all though I noticed the deliberate in your face “Irishness” of the place. Everywhere you went they were pushing the cartoon tourist version of Ireland, presumably for the benefit of Americans who lap up that kind of thing. Every pub had fiddle players and people dressed in what I assume to be national dress.
It became just too much after a while. I assume it’s not like that everywhere, but I found it became tiresome very quickly.
Dere’s more to Oirland dan dis.
…Leprechauns, shamrock, Guinness, horses running through council estates, toothless simpletons, people with eyebrows on their cheeks …
Down with this sort of thing
Careful now.
I’ll get the fupping man
There’s a word, Johnny: Paddywhackery!
I was back recently and that approach from the airport to the centre, Dorset St., is just as seedy as when I was a student 40+ years ago. The bit below Pearse station, though, the Google bit, has turned out nicely.
Sounds like Temple Bar rather than the rest of Dublin Johnny C. I’d advise any visitors to avoid it like the plague. If you want to meet cartoon Irish hamming it up for the tourists, you’d need to trek down to Kerry for the full horror.
*retires to safe distance having lit blue touchpaper. Probably safe enough until the Internet reaches Kerry.
Yes, Temple Bar, that was it.
Temple Bar: Dublin’s very own Leicester Square…
Last time I was in Dublin I had a great night at Vicar Street watching Wilco. I doubt this helps however as they’re not playing there in the foreseeable future.
If you see my mates Phil or Tomo say hello from me.
My only visit to Dublin was a boozy weekend with my mate Nigel. In a Temple Bar pub we thought we were receiving admiring glances from 2 lovely ladies. It turned out they thought I looked like someone off the tellybox.
Mr Burns from The Simpsons.
Not been back since. I did enjoy standing in St Stephen’s Green and telling everyone it was named after me. Has anyone mentioned the statues yet? Floozy in the jacuzzi, etc.
Floozy in the jacuzzi? I thought we had Birmingham dibs on that, but apparently there’s another.
See also the statue of Molly Malone – ‘the tart with the cart’. I don’t think that the statue of Phil Lynott has a name. ‘The face with the bass’ perhaps? I’m sure we can do better.
The Spire on O’Connell St is the prick on the brick. The floozie has been moved off O”Connell Street to a small park up beside Heuston Station. Molly Malone was also moved last year around the corner to the Tourism Office Church on Suffolk Street.
The Spire also known as the Stiffy On The Liffey, or the Stiletto In The Ghetto, if memory serves
See also this thread which was helpful to me last year:
Well thanks for all your suggestions we have
Once
Kilmainham Gaol
IMMA
Hugh Lane Gallery
National Museum
All lined up plus pizza, Guinness etc
will report back!
I’m awaiting the @moseleymoles update!
Ah sure, he probably got held up at syringe-point!
I think I only saw this place mentioned the once, above, so I’ll chime in and say it’s really worth some time:-
http://www.littlemuseum.ie
Lot of other good suggestions, already, but that’s a cool wee place.
Dalkey nice to stroll around. Walk from there to Sandycove and pretend it’s Bloomsday.
@neilo @drj @johnny-bubbles we are all back safely and a blow-by-blow will follow shortly. Warning: contains GAA football and DART travel announcements.