Hi folks. Apologies for a lazy post but instead of doing some proper research myself I thought I’d appeal to the Massive hive mind for ideas.
In November I’m going on probably what will be a once in a lifetime trip to New York, with a brief chance to see a bit of Amsterdam on the way back. Never been to either city.
I saw the recent brilliant thread on Dublin so I’m being cheeky here and looking for similar tips.
I’m not a particularly frequent traveller. On average I’ve been abroad once every two or three years, but generally nowhere further than Europe. Generally city breaks: London, Paris, Rome. I like the buzz of cities.
The difference this time is I’m travelling with my mum not my wife. So fancy shopping and fancy restaurants are generally not required. Me and my mum are both practical and spendthrift, so would get more pleasure out of simple value for money pursuits. Neither of use are averse to hoofing it around – anything up to 7 or 8 miles a day at most would be acceptable. I’m 43 and my mum is 67.
Any ideas? Practical as well as cultural.
New York:
We’ll be there for four days in total. Haven’t booked accommodation yet. To give you an idea of what I might like:
– In London I loved visiting music sights, like the site of Joe Meek’s studio on Holloway Road, Abbey Road, and (yes) Battersea Power Station from the Pink Floyd cover.
– We also both love films, so film locations are good and also interesting or historical cinemas.
– I also generally love museums and modern art galleries (Imperial War Museum in London, V&A, Pompidou Centre, all good)
– I’m a Beatles nut, and have done all the Liverpool location stuff. One thing I do want is to visit the place where Lennon was shot… Bit morbid I know….
– Interesting pubs or eateries would be good, but cheap and cheerful beats posh.
Amsterdam:
My mum is going on to Austin to stay with my brother for a while, so Amsterdam is a solo trip. It’s a flying visit – I’m literally there for thirteen (daytime) hours from landing to takeoff. So I want to make the most of it and soak up the atmosphere. I quite like photography so thought I might look for some interesting locations for pics.
Thanks in advance for any ideas!
I’ve never been to New York and envy you your trip. I have been to (old) Amsterdam a couple of times though. It’s a vey walkable city, and the ring system of the canals is as useful for finding your way around as I imagine the grid system of streets is in NY. For shopping the vintage stores in the 9 streets district are worth a rummage, for photos I would avoid the flower market – all closed tulips and not nearly as colourful as you might hope. The Van Gogh Museum is the pick of the artsy bunch, which are handily grouped in one area. Unless you’re used to it I would avoid the weed – the only joint I’ve smoked in years was in Amsterdam. ‘Not too strong’ I said to the guy selling me the ready-rolled spliff); after two puffs I couldn’t walk. And watch out for bikes – they have right of way everywhere and don’t allow for pedestrians stepping out in front of them have a great trip!
Van Gogh Museum sounds like a goer!
Go early and go straight to the Sunflowers. Then, take in the rest as you see fit.
I really like The Frick museum in NY. It’s small and has an interesting history. Well situated for a walk in Central Park http://www.frick.org/collection/works_on_display
The other thing I would do, cos I’ve never done it and have heard such good things about it, is the Highline. It has the advantage of being free http://www.thehighline.org/visit
The Highline sounds perfect.
The Highline is very good.
Ditto to both those.
Four days and a first trip to New York? I wouldn’t bother with the High Line. It’s pleasant but not really ‘New York’. We’ve been to NY a few times and the last time we went along the High Line on our first day and, after hearing a lot about it were both rather disappointed. If you go, wait a couple of days to use it to get away from the crowds.
Agreed, it’s a more “alternative” NY, but well worth a couple of hours, early morning is best.
Go N-S to get “busier” as you walk.
More, personally smapled, votes for
Staten Island Ferry
MoMA
Central Park (it’s vast, try a guided walk?)
Subway pass (makes it super easy to get around Manhattan, which is bigger than you think and not really ever so walkable. You can easily walk 10 miles and see three things)
DUMBO view/Brooklyn Bridge walks (towards Manhattan is indeed recommended)
Top of the Rock is the better for views (you get to see Central park and the ESB, which you don’t from the ESB. Good shout re sunset, below)
Guggenheim (even if only for the building and shop)
Grand Central (find the whispering gallery, as has been suggested)
EJ’s
WTC memorial is very moving (the white roses in a person’s name when you see them indicate that it would’ve been their birthday that day)
We used “Free Tours By Foot” and they were great. Not really “free”, but you won’t quibble at chucking them $20 or so.)
NY is a city that rewards planning, in my experience.
Enjoy, I love it, my favourite city of them all.
We’re just back from our annual NY trip.
We stayed in Ink48 in Hells Kitchen, which is close enough to all the Broadway stuff but also out of all the hustle and bustle.
My favorite museum is the Morgan Library – by the time you get there, the Bronte exhibition that will be taking the 2nd floor should be open.
MOMA is good; Guggenheim depends on what they’re actually exhibiting. Frick is good, so too Natural History (where they filmed the Night At The Museum movies)
If you’re planning opn going to a show, find a TKTS booth and get 50% off same day performances. Avoid The Color Purple. Do see Something Rotten and/or The Curious Incident…
I’ll add to this if anything else occurs.
This is all good stuff! Keep it coming!
@arthur-cowslip the guggenheim is a must-see – inside and outside – whatever they are exhibiting. Just an astonishing building.
Yes it is an amazing building. When we were there 2 years ago there happened to be an exhibition of Italian Futurists, who I’d never heard of, and loved.
We saw that exhibition. Reaction here was more muted 🙂
In New York, I would do the Staten Island Ferry – it’s free and you get a good view of the Statue of Liberty without battling the crowds.
If you want one of the views from the top of a tall building, “Top of the Rock” at the Rockerfeller Centre is better than the Empire State Building – for one thing you get the view of the Empire State Building.
For me the best view of the Manhattan Skyline is the one you get from DUMBO (Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass) in Brooklyn – an amazing view of the skyline framed by the bridge. I would get a Metro over and then walk back over Brooklyn Bridge.
I love breakfast or coffee in the East Village or Lower East Side – great for people watching and imagining you live there.
A walk in Central Park is easily combined with your trip to the Dakota, where Lennon was shot.
A bit further up Manhattan on the Upper West Side (around 110th Street I think) is Tom’s Diner – as featured in the Suzanne Vega song and the opening scenes of Seinfeld. They do a brilliant breakfast.
I love New York. I am very jealous.
Another vote for Top of the Rock over the Empire State – lovely views of Central Park too. You can combine a trip to The Metropolitan Museum of Art with the Guggenheim (even if it’s just a view of the building itself).
Have a look at the NY City Pass where you get tickets for 6 different attractions and you’re able to skip the ticket queues at most of them.
Try a bagel or two at a traditional establishment (such as Ess-a-Bagel at 3rd and 51st). If you are visiting MOMA and fancy some street food then try the Halal Guys stalls at 53rd and 6th – very popular and deservedly so.
For a musical landmark – how about the Brill Building on Broadway between 49th and 50th streets?
The Brill building is a must and if you’re around 51st & 3rd, you can stroll to 53rd & 3rd made famous by the Ramones.
We “heart” NY.
We stayed at The Marmara apartment hotel. http://manhattan.marmaranyc.com/
Use the subway and get a prepay card. It’s not scary like it used to be.
Another vote for MOMA. The Guggenheim is a lovely building but the contents are eclectic.
If you fancy eating in a diner then EJ’s at 1271 3rd Avenue is great. Their brunch defeated my son (the one with the hollow legs).
Buy music at Bleecker Street Records at 188 West 4th St (they got priced out of Bleecker St). Say hi to Keetah and Schulz, the record store cats.
Walk in Central Park.
You might like the Radio City tour. I did it years ago and was interested in the backstage stuff (I have a professional interest but still good fun.)
Go and see Grand Central Station. It’s beautiful.
Have coffee and cake in Little Italy.
Above all, walk! You will get the most out of the city by pounding the pavements.
I’ll add more if anything occurs to me. Enjoy!
I asked a similar question a couple of years ago and Radio City Theater tour was suggested, we thoroughly enjoyed it, out front the sheer scale and opulence is fascinating. Backstage is grubby and a workplace!
I was interested in the flying system and the stage hydraulics, the design of which, IIRC, were adapted for aircraft carriers. I couldn’t convince the family to go when we were there last year unfortunately.
Frequent visitor to New York and will be there again in October. I second the suggestion of walking Brooklyn Bridge back to the city. Suggest getting underground to Coney Island – walk to boardwalk eating a Nathan’s hot dog. New York staple for over 100 years. Chelsea market is perfect for lunch and quirky shops and is right next to a section of the high line.
Washington square and Greenwich Village are also great fun. Also highly recommend any of the traditional Pizza take outs in the city ( not the chains). Ignore the competing claims from Chicago, New York Pizza is the best.
Grand Central Station is awesome, free and photogenic. Listen out for the walls where the sound of the trains whisper around you.
And check out the food hall below ground. I had no idea it was there for years.
I used to live in upstate NY. We used to regularly get the train in to Grand Central with our baby daughter. Spent hours in that food court. Some great stuff there.
Other free stuff, as mentioned previously, Staten Island Ferry and Central Park. Haven’t been for a while, but Ground Zero used to be very moving. Stay away from Times Square area, Overpriced mediocre tourist trap.
In the Bronx, the zoo is fun, if you like that sort of thing. And catch a game at Yankee Stadium if it’s still on.
Thank you everyone for all these great suggestions. The Staten Island Ferry, Brooklyn Bridge and Radio City tour all peak my interest.
Pedant alert: it’s no doubt ‘pique’ your spellchecker struggled with their.
Oh. Yes. Um. Spellchecker definitely. Harumph. Cough.
Ha! And you didn’t even pick up on my open goal to retaliate. What a gent!
Oh yeah, cos I obviously totally noticed that their. Yes I’m a gent, not a poor gramarion.
I would also say that the Anne Frank house in Amsterdam is one of the few ‘visitor attractions’ (entirely the wrong words) that it is worth visiting whatever the queue. Bring a hankie, it’s tremendously affecting. And the Foundation does good stuff with your money rather than handing it over to Tussauds Group shareholders.
The queue can be huge – we walked past twice at different times of day before deciding to come back before the house opened the next morning. Even then there was a wait, despite them opening earlier than usual to meet demand. But, of course, a unique and important place. It gave me goosebumps just to stand in the bookcase doorway to the annex.
No need to queue – you can book a timed slot online, in advance. It really is tremendously affecting.
Take your mother here for a meal: http://www.moeders.com/en/about Take a photo of her as well and they will display it!
We had great food here: http://www.foodism.nl/ Book to get a table inside which is small and much nicer than it looks from the outside.
If you’ve time and inclination for a 30 minute train ride to Utrecht a walk up the 465 steps of the Dom Tower and a visit here: http://www.atlasobscura.com/places/museum-speelklok
is a wonderful afternoon out.
Sorry – didn’t see that your mother isn’t with you in Amsterdam and that your visit is so brief. I’ll leave the post though for next time, maybe . . .
Cheers. No problem if you misread my post – it was a bit lengthy!
A walk in Vondelpark is also recommended not least because you will unexpectedly see Parakeets in the wild. Apparently the result of an escape years bbc ago and the population multiplied. Most odd.
Common in many London parks to.
Didn’t know that Retro.
Their existence in West London has been attributed to them either escaping from the set of The African Queen or being released by Jimi Hendrix. I forget why but both stories are basically bollocks. The colonies are almost certainly descendants of escaped domestic pets.
Strand Books, Staten Island Ferry, Upper West Side, Guggenheim, indie pizza (any), avoid Times Square or chains,, hit TKTS for a show; if you are there on a Sunday have a hearty diner breakfast and walk the length of Central park to burn it off, returning via Spanish Harlem and dig the music and ambience – unless even THAT has been gentrified. Not been in a few years, so can’t promise the above all still works, or the decent record shops remain.
Record shops in Greenwich Village still exist, but are ridiculously overpriced, better to head to Brooklyn.
Other Music and Rebel Rebel both closed since I was last there in April. Sad but inescapable reality.
I’m going to second (and third in some cases) Staten Island Ferry, Strand Books, MOMA and Grand Central Station.
I’d also add in Ground Zero.
Whether you head up to Top of the Rock or the Empire State building, I would suggest finding out the approximate time of that day’s sunset. Go an hour beforehand and you’ll end up staying there long enough for both a daytime view and a nighttime view. The time will fly by.
In Amsterdam, I’d second (or third) the Anne Frank house. For a virtually empty place, it’s utterly fascinating. And the Van Gogh museum.
And eat Dutch apple cake with cinnamon ice cream.
I’m googling all this stuff and building an itinerary…
If you’re in the West Village, go to 188 Sullivan St. It’s the house where the composer Edgard Varese lived in 1955 when a 15 year old Frank Zappa made a long distance call to him from California, a birthday present from his mother. Unfortunately Edgard had popped out so the young Frank got to speak to his wife, Louise.
I won’t post the stupid photo of me outside the house.
That’s an insanely specific landmark. So it appeals to me.
Another insanely specific landmark – especially if you’re near the Morgan Library, as others have astutely recommended – is Sniffen Court, on East 36th Street between 3rd and Lexington Aves. Setting for the cover of the Doors’ Strange Days. Don’t think you’re allowed to wander around inside, but gazing upon it will surely trigger a wave of nostalgia if you are of a certain age…
Oooooh I like that.
I took my kids a few months back, having worked there lots in the 90s. Empire State now has airport levels of security – took bloody ages. Skating in Central Park was the best thing we did – I guess it’s a bit late in the season now. Flatiron Building and Guggenheim always a joy to see in the flesh, so to speak. Statue of Liberty worth the trip, I think. We walked through 42nd and Broadway and ended up seeing Wicked, which was rather entertaining. The charging bull is a good sight if you’re near Wall Street. Ground Zero was awesome – as were some of the new buildings they’re putting up there, the subway station for instance. Enjoy!
Sheesh, haven’t been in NYC since 1976 so I’ve got nothing to offer but this, which sorta covers both bases:
Crikey, I haven’t been for 20 years, and that seemed long enough ago. So nothing to offer either, except this.
Amateur Night at The Apollo in Harlem is great fun with seriously talented artists, audience participation, and heaps of history.
We enjoyed an evening Jazz Cruise on the Hudson, a relaxing way to end the day.
Excuse the ignorance, but amateur what? Musicians or comedians? (Or something else entirely?)
Jazz
Nice…….
It’s kinda like a ‘Gong Show’ where several acts do their thing and are judged on the audience reaction, sounds cruel, but its lighthearted with a great compere.
All sorts of acts from singers, musicians, dancers, comedians, child prodigy’s etc.
It’s ‘Mother Friendly’ too, nothing too close to the bone.
Give it a google for dates etc.
Music venues to check out in NYC
The Blue Note and Village Vanguard in Greenwich Village, small jazz clubs
City Winery, also in downtown area
mid-town you have the Iridium (another small club) and the Beacon Theatre
You will usually find something rather good to see in one or more of these venues. For example, I will be there in about three weeks time and will be going to see Tedeschi Trucks Band at the Beacon
Good tip, thanks! I’ll start checking listings.
I’ll reiterate what everyone else has said about NY, and add this:
MOMA does free entry on a Friday night. Don’t do it. The regular admission is expensive, but the free Friday’s are an absolute circus, when every tourist in the city descends on the museum. If you just want to run in, see Starry Night and get out again, then it’s fine. But if you want to actually enjoy the place, pay and go in.
The Met is “suggested admission”, meaning you can pay what you want for entry. They don’t seem to care if you pay less. Also, they have a new gallery in the Upper East Side, called the Met Brueur. The Diane Arbus exhibition on there at the moment is fantastic, and your ticket for one Met lets you in to the other for free on the same day.
There’s a Strawberry Fields Lennon memorial in Central Park. I’ve not been but it might be worth stopping there.
Download the Uber app. Sometimes the subway network doesn’t quite take you where you need to go, and a quick Uber trip might be more practical.
I wouldn’t make a special journey to the Strawberry Fields memorial but it’s just by the Dakota Building so you may as well take it in if you’re in the area.
I went to Strawberry Fields and hated it – full of tourists and a very bad busker singing a George Harrison song.
My pilgrimage was further disappointed when I discovered the Dakota Building was surrounded by scaffolding
Stevie Wonder was right “New York, just like I pictured it”.
New York is basically a film set. You’ve seen it all before but I don’t think you can see it too many times. After four days of walking (and New York is a walking city) you’ll probably be knackered but once you’re on the plane, you’ll be planning the next trip. I did my ‘Holiday of a lifetime’ that started in New York 25 years ago and I can’t get enough of it.
New York: I’d recommend the open top bus tours – the uptown and downtown loops. Not particularly cheap – and for sure full of selfie-taking tourists – but you get a great sense of where everything is and can jump on and off. You used to get these from the street that runs on the Hells Kitchen side behind Times Square.
Amsterdam: was there last week – wander round the Jordaan district – and if your mum likes record shopping try Concerto – six shops knocked into one and though a little thin on CD stock compared to previous visits, it’s well worth a visit. It’s on a tram route and easy to get to. https://concerto.amsterdam/
Also, the Rijskmuseum – it’s thronged with tourists so best to book in advance. Away from the Van Goghs it’s quieter.
Another vote for the open top buses. It sounds terribly touristy, and it is, but if it’s your first visit you won’t find a better way to orientate yourself. You get an overview of the city and how all the neighbourhoods sit together, and the guides are funny and irrelevant as well as knowledgeable. If you like the look of a place you can get off and pick up a later bus, or you can use it to choose where to go back to on foot. If you only do one, the lower loop is probably better, although the uptown one takes you to the Dakota and The Apollo in Harlem (if it’s still there?)
Also if you have time to pop over to Brooklyn or Long Island it’s worth it for the view back to Manhattan. I remember the first time I was there (’96), coming in over the Queensboro bridge at night and just yelping with excitement as the skyline appeared before us. You’ll have a great time.
If you do open top buses, sit down when they tell you to. Otherwise you may lose your head.
Even if you hate musicals, as I do, an evening at Marie’s Crisis Cafe 59 Grove St, New York, NY 10014 is a must. A cramped basement bar where Broadway performers pop in for a sing song round the piano. It’s great fun. The Lower East Side Tenement Museum is also really worth a visit http://www.tenement.org/
I used to spend a week in Amsterdam every September with work. Best thing I ever did was hire a bike. It’s a lovely place to walk or cycle around.
Also take a waterproof. It rains a lot there (or more than it does in Cambridge, anyhow).
I’m from Glasgow. It’s fine.
In which case, take your sunblock.
If you’re a fan of the Brian de Palma’s “Phantom Of The Paradise”, head for the New York City Center at 131 West 55th St in Manhattan – it was used as the exterior for the Paradise….if you do it at night, limp and breathe heavily for extra effect.
Another shout for the Staten Island ferry.
I would also recommend a walk across the Brooklyn Bridge. Read up on the construction of it – it’s a great story.
Food wise, Norma’s for breakfast is incredible. It will mean that you don’t need lunch. It is expensive but it is great.
Grand Central Station is beautiful. Try out the whispering walls thing as well – worth a google.
Every time I hear of the Staten Island Ferry, I think of…
“I went to Staten Island.
To buy myself a mandolin
And I saw the long white dress of love
On a storefront mannequin
Big boat chuggin’ back with a belly full of cars,
All for something lacy
Some girl’s going to see that dress
And crave that day like crazy…”
Choon!
I went to this concert. Still in my top 3
Eat in Little Italy & Chinatown; in Little Italy they do this thing with a bottle of wine where rather than give you a glass, they give you a bottle and then charge you on consumption. Go and have a look at the UN building and imagine you’re Cary Grant and then go to Grand Central. I’m not sure if it’s been mentioned but the New York Public Library is a fabulous place; a real place of wonder and you can stop off there if you’re tired. The brownstone houses north of Washington Square are lovely to look at as is the flatiron building. I believe there used to be Woody Allen themed walking tours but not sure if they are still going on. If you love buildings as much as I do and fancy a trip out of New York, go and have a look at Philip Johnson’s Glass House. You can get there from Grand Central.
http://theglasshouse.org/
Amsterdam – I believe the Van Gogh museum has just re-opened with a new exhibition about him cutting off his ear. If you fancy a boat trip, don’t go for the official sightseeing ones. We asked a yellow taxi boat to give us a tour and fix your own price. The Amsterdam arena (where Ajax play) is good place to visit for stadium tours although the guides are a bit up themselves. Oh and eat Indonesian.
Have a lovely trip.
Get a New York greeter tour if they still do ’em. Free and fantastic insider stuff. I got taken round Chinatown and Little Italy by a really grumpy Woody Allen lookeee-likee, who gave a fabulously non p.c. expose of the city he loves and lives in. Included free shoutings of “getajawb” to panhandlers.
http://bigapplegreeter.org/
A Chinatown Woody Allen clone? My mind is a little boggled at the very thought
In NY I’d recommend Ellis Island – fascinating museum, great insight to the immigration into both NYC and the US in general. I’d book in advance as the queues can be eye watering. You can do the Statue of Liberty on the same ferry trip (although I’ve never bothered).
And stop for a mooch in The Strand bookshop – http://www.strandbooks.com/
In Amsterdam the Anne Frank House is well worth a visit – again book online to avoid a long wait. I booked tickets that included a presentation first (in English) which was worth the extra effort / cost.
Delis:
Everyone has their own favourite NY bar and NY deli. As you’re a tourist (as I am when I go) then I suggest either the Carnegie (monstrously overpriced, but fantastic) or Katz’s depending on where you are staying. A brunch or mid-afternoon arrival will probably get you a table more easily than lunch. Both are really all about the pastrami!
Katz’s = When Harry Met Sally
Carnegie = Broadway Danny Rose.
But the sandwiches are so big you can split them between two (for an additional charge I believe)
agreed. Everything is bigger in America. When I went to Carnegie for breakfast for the first time in the eighties an English friend ordered a muffin – getting an enormous and chocolate thing instead of an English toasted delicacy. Now – its the English muffin thats an endangered species.
Don’t forget to hum “Eye Level” by the Simon Park Orchestra as you wander alongside Amsterdam’s canals.
You could probably skip “A Mouse In Old Amsterdam”, though.
It’s probably getting on for fifteen years since I was in Amsterdam so my advice may be a little out of date but I’d recommend the Scheepvaartsmuseum (the Maritime Museum). It’s by the docks and I guess there’s still an old EastIndiaman there that you can go on board.
I’d agree with the advice to eat Indonesian.
I finally visited New York for the first time last year. And whilst I know this will have a limited audience the most interesting thing I did was to go to an AA meeting held in a BLGT community centre in Greenwich Village. For just an hour I felt I really managed to scratch beneath the surface of New York. I got the impression a lot of the people there were in the performing arts world and the chair was a fantastic guy who took to the floor and ran the ‘show’ as if it were on Broadway. A fascinating insight into a part of New York life that I felt privileged to be part of on my journey as a recovering alcoholic.
A mate of mine visited Monaco way back when and went to his AA meeting. As I gather happens at these things, everyone introduced themselves. One chap said in a dour Liverpool accent “Mt name’s Richard and I’m an alcoholic”. My mate, who’s a drummer, and had sat in the seats behind the band at the fabs’ Wellington Town Hall concert in 1964, had a good old chat with Ringo, including telling him that before the band came on he was tempted to rush on to the stage and get behind the kit.
If you’re a Beatle nut, there’s 105 Bank Street in the West Village (John Lennon’s residence before the Dakota). Check wikipedia for all the other past residents and events there. Also, Bob Dylan’s Greenwich village haunts, including his old home 161 West 4th St, and recreate the cover of Dylan’s Freewheelin’ a couple of streets away at Jones St. I’ll admit l am a sad git and have done all of this with the wife – no wonder she left me!.
Otherwise, as above
Staten Island ferry
MOMA
Natural History Museum
Top of the Rock
Apollo Theatre
Plus, if football’s your thing, and Manchester United your team, Nevada Smiths pub for a game.
There’s always something else to find and do whenever you visit, so l’m sure you’ll have a blast.
Enjoy!